Skin care is a dynamic, rapidly evolving market with an abundance of brands ooking to attract the attention of a highly informed and demanding consumer who wants more than just a garden variety moisturizer. They want products that work fast and reliably, that look and feel good, and that last well. Along with function and performance, the sensory and emotional benefits must complete the package to entice consumers to buy.
Key trends include an increased focus on natural/organic ingredients and brands, new launches of products and devices for home use that mimic clinical results, and more targeted products aimed at specific consumer concerns such as acne, rosacea and redness, and pigmentation. Recent technological advancements have allowed skin care marketers to develop products that target more specific consumer needs.
The cosmeceutical industry is succeeding in delivering quality technology and ingredients that have enhanced efficacy, especially in the realm of sun care and anti-aging. As a result, consumers' attitudes have evolved so that more consumers today believe that using the right skin care can make a visible improvement in their skin. Both men and surprisingly young adults are also fast increasing their use of cosmeceuticals.
The proliferation of new ingredients has increased consumer confusion, and made physician selection more challenging. Many of the ingredients found in products that tout age-fighting benefits lack sufficient clinical data to support their claims. While manufacturers promise dramatic improvements, especially on wrinkles, only a few products have real hard data.
These are the 4 hero ingredient categories found in anti-aging skin care that are definitely here to stay.
RETINOL
Currently, the topical retinoids approved by the FDA for treating photodamaged skin include tretinoin 0.02% and 0.05% emollient cream, and tazarotene 0.1% cream. Retinol is converted to retinoic acid (tretinoin, Retin-A) in living cells. Although its clinical effects are not as dramatic as retinoic acid, retinol is available without prescription and has been incorporated into many skin care products. To some degree, retinol has also been used in the management of acne and keratosis pilaris in topical creams. The increased skin exfoliation of vitamin A helps unclog pores. When applied to skin, retinol penetrates better than retinoic acid, and does not produce the same irritating effects. The proven anti-aging benefits of retinol include the reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, signs of photodamage, and pore size. Retinol was pioneered and stabilized by RoC® in 1995, and has been a leading anti-aging skincare ingredient ever since. Current formulations of retinol range from the lowest strength on the market of about 0.15% to 1.0% retinol, which is the highest non-prescription strength available.
PEPTIDES
Peptides are fragments or pieces of proteins, which have a variety of effects on cellular function. Many cosmeceutical formulas include both synthetic and naturally occurring peptides shown in the laboratory to have a biologic effect on aging or sun damaged skin. Certain peptides may stimulate skin metabolism and repair, others inhibit the breakdown of collagen, while other varieties decrease muscle movement, thus improving dynamic wrinkles. Peptides may act as carrier agents to facilitate delivery of other agents into the skin, such as copper which serves a role in collagen production, as "signaling" molecules, by activating fibroblasts and inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) which degrade collagen, and as inhibitors of neuromuscular transmission by interfering with the activity of membrane proteins necessary for the release of acetycholine. The most common peptides found in topical skin care products are acetyl hexapeptide-3 or Argireline ®, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, also called Matrixyl®, which is found in Olay Regenerist and DDF Wrinkle Relax, among other brands.
GLYCOLIC ACIDS
Glycolic acids, first popularized during the 1980s, have remained a steadfast favorite of doctors and consumers alike. They can jumpstart the exfoliation process by dissolving the cellular glue that binds dead cells together to allow healthier living cells to reach the surface, providing a smoother, clearer complexion. Glycolic acids are also keratolytics that absorb into the sebaceous follicle where the build-up of dead cells can contribute to aging and acne. Glycolic acid has superb water binding capabilities which facilities and increase in skin thickness. The original glycolic acid range is NeoStrata, developed by Doctors Van Scott and Yu over two decades ago. Although glycolic acids today are not as sexy as they once were, there are newer varieties including the polyhydroxyacids that are gentler and kinder for even the most sensitive skin types.
ANTIOXIDANTS
Several antioxidants are used as ingredients in topical skin care formulations, including lycopene, grape seed extract, resveratrol, green tea, coenzyme Q10, and lipoic acid. Each offers distinct advantages, yet they pose similar challenges in terms of harnessing their potency in topical products.
Antioxidants, applied topically, reduce free-radical damage, thus helping prevent cellular damage, collagen destruction due to inflammation, and immune suppression. Many researchers believe that a single antioxidant, no matter how stable or potent, is not as effective for skin as a group of antioxidants, because antioxidants in combination can exert a synergistic cumulative action on the skin.
Coenzyme Q10, also called ubiquonone, is a powerful antioxidant found in all cells that combats free radical stress and assists in energy production. Levels of coenzyme Q10 decline with age. Topical coenzyme Q10 has been shown to penetrate the viable layers of the epidermis and lower the level of oxidation, which suggests that topical coenzyme Q10 may be effective in preventing and repairing photodamage. Closely related to CoQ10, Idebenone is claimed to have properties similar to CoQ10 in its antioxidant properties, and to be a more efficient free radical scavenger. The highest strength of Idebenone-based skincare is currently found in Prevage® MD (1% Idebenone) Anti-Aging Treatment (Allergan), which is marketed exclusively through physicians. Elizabeth Arden Prevage® contains 0.5% Idebenone and is available at prestige retailers and department stores.
WENDY LEWIS is President of Wendy LewIs & Co Ltd, a global aesthetics consultancy based in New York and London. She is the author of 10 books, including PLASTIC MAKES PERFECT (ORION) that will launched in January 2008. Lewis is a frequent guest lecturer at medical conferences and cosmetics industry events in the USA and Europe and writes features for Financial Times, Tatler, Medesthetics, and many publications. She is the Global Trends Expert for HBA Global Expo and a Contributing Editor to Aesthetic Buyers Guide and European Aesthetics Buyers Guide. Lewis has been seen on CNN, MSNBC, NBC, GMTV and many other programs. http://www.wlbeauty.com | wlbeauty@aol.com
Source: www.articlecity.com
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